Focaccia
Two cm thick, glossy with olive oil, topped with coarse salt. Warm is best, but it's great cold too.
Recipe on Visit GenoaCogoleto's table: simple ingredients, deep tradition.
Cogoleto's food is the cuisine of the western Ligurian Riviera — the same ingredients found in Genoa and along the coast, but with the accent of a fishing village. In the morning, a queue forms in front of the focacceria in the caruggio for focaccia straight from the oven — thick, glossy with olive oil, still warm — eaten standing up at the door, with a cappuccino. It's a local ritual, not a tourist set piece.
The catch of the day arrives at dawn from the little port and from the Arenzano and Savona boats: Western-Liguria anchovies for cuculli and for marinating, sea bass and bream for the grill, octopus for summer salads. The seafront restaurants change the menu according to what the sea delivered that morning — don't expect a fixed list in July: ask what came in.
In the alleys of the old town you'll still find the traditional shops — the bread oven, the salumeria, the loose-wine cellar of the Western Riviera — that make a zero-kilometre aperitivo possible even in winter: Taggiasca olives from the Savona hinterland, the Cogoleto-style cheese focaccia (thinner than the classic Recco version), a glass of Pigato or Vermentino from local growers.
The Ligurian table lives on simple ingredients elevated by centuries of tradition: extra-virgin olive oil, herbs, fresh fish, bread and vegetables.
Two cm thick, glossy with olive oil, topped with coarse salt. Warm is best, but it's great cold too.
Recipe on Visit GenoaAnchovies, sea bass, sea bream, octopus: whatever the sea brings at dawn.
Where to eat itBreadcrumb soaked in milk, egg, parsley, Parmigiano. Oven or fried. The recipe changes from grandmother to grandmother.
Recipe on Visit GenoaAnchovies, tomato, onion, garlic, olive oil, parsley. Ladled over broken galletta del marinaio (sailor's hardtack), eaten with a spoon.
Entry on LigucibarioIGP since 2008. The mother product of bagnun, stuffed anchovies, and the Ligurian fish-toast aperitivo.
IGP datasheetThe Christmas Eve dish. Hardtack base, boiled vegetables arranged by colour, poached white fish and green sauce. Found only in December or by pre-order.
Recipe on Visit GenoaDish photo credits: all from Pexels (free commercial-use licence, no attribution required).
Grandmother's stuffed sardines, the four named bakeries of the town with address, the story of bagnun, pesto in the mortar, the difference between buridda and ciuppin, and why the butcher-with-kitchen on Via Colombo is one of the most genuinely Cogoletese tables. About forty-five minutes of honest reading.
Read the articleIn the mortar: one Vessalico garlic clove, a pinch of salt, a handful of DOP basil. Pound until bright green. Add pine nuts, then Parmigiano and Pecorino. Finish with a stream of Ligurian extra-virgin olive oil.
Serve immediately over trofie or trenette, drained just seconds before.

Find out where to try all of this.
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